48 hours in Reggio Emilia

The vitality of a welcoming city

by Silvia Ugolotti

Reassuring and on a human scale, Reggio Emilia embodies the human dimension of provincial towns, to be discovered a little at a time, with the slow pace of a stroll or the rattling rhythm of a bicycle ride.

DAY 1

9 a.m. – Boni Pastry Shop
Spoon desserts, pastries, cakes: since 1890, Boni Pastry Shop has been a landmark in town.
With a good coffee what but rice cake?
Served hot in an old-fashioned atmosphere.
(pastrybonireggioemilia.co.uk)

10 a.m. – Piazza Prampolini
City of art and culture preserves an important historical and architectural heritage.
On one side are the squares, on the other the public theaters, which, a rare, perhaps unique case, all overlook Piazza della Vittoria, the largest square in the city, a perfect hexagon: the Via Emilia runs in the middle.
The heart of Reggio Emilia is in Piazza Prampolini, the Piazza Grande with the Romanesque Cathedral and Baptistery and the Town Hall where the Tricolor flag flies.

11 a.m. – Tricolor Museum
There are original documents, objects and an exhibition of contemporary artwork (Ninety Artists for One Flag) and the Tricolor Room January 7, 1797 delegates from the cities of Bologna, Ferrara, Modena and Reggio Emilia proclaimed the birth of the green, white and red banner as the emblem of the Cispadane Republic.
Antonio Casotti Square, 1

12 noon – Piazza San Prospero
Guarded by the medieval Bell Tower and dominated by the Basilica of the same name, with its Baroque facade, lions in the churchyard and inside frescoes that are syntheses of Mannerism and Baroque, it is the parlor square with bar tables and slow strolling in summer.
In winter when the fog envelops it, it is a metaphysical picture.
It is the area of gourmet storefronts that make you hungry and entice you to enter just by looking at them.
They are those of Salumeria Pancaldi on Broletto Street and Panificio Melli on the square.
Gourmet addresses where you can find well-seasoned cured meats, cheeses and the best erbazzone in town.

1 p.m. – Macramé
The ancient walls of Palazzo Busetti sum up the hospitality and cuisine ideas of Fabrizio Mantovani, from Faenza: in the morning there is the cafeteria then the bistro comes into operation, where you can taste the pumpkin fondant, ginger-scented with shrimp and quinoa salad.
Appetizers are with “half-dos,” while in the evening you order a fine dining menu a la carte, from guinea fowl with pumpkin and coffee to fish.
One place, many nuances.
(macrame.re)

3 p.m. – Parmeggiani Gallery
Palazzo, in Gothic-Renaissance style, was built by Luigi Parmeggiani between 1925 and 1928 (designed by Reggio Emilia engineer Ascanio Ferrari) to house his art collection.
The building, both inside and out, seems to express a synthesis of models from the ancient, medieval and Renaissance worlds, perfectly in tune with the characteristics of the collection housed.
Corso Cairoli, 2

5 p.m. – Spazio Gerra
large-glass exhibition container for art, photography, graphics, video and advertising and not far behind, the New Museum (musei.re.it) opened summer 2021 with a new feature, a permanent exhibition dedicated to Luigi Ghirri.
The inauguration is the result of a 10-year journey that has witnessed the transformation of the Museums Palace through architectural forms, lighting, layouts and materials curated by architect Italo Rota.
(spaziogerra.co.uk)

7 p.m. – Fontanesi Square
Poetic and rigorous, shaded by linden trees it looks like a Parisian corner.
It is the square of appointments and aperitifs with a glass of wine and a ham board.
For example, at Bistrot Canossa (bistrotcanossa.it), metropolitan style with warm, well-kept surroundings and a good cocktail menu, or at Jigger (jiggerspiritiecucina.it) where they follow drink-system trends and have fruit, spices, curious syrups such as pepper, absinthe and liqueurs.
It is along Via San Carlo, the street that leads from Piazza San Prospero to Piazza Fontanesi.

9 p.m.- Matilde Bistrot and Burger Bar
From a love of good food and excellent wine comes this restaurant, which in an appealing location in the historic center combines old traditional Emilian recipes with creative burgers made with meats from the historic Petucco butcher shop.
Good wine list
(matildebistrot.com)

DAY 2

10 a.m. – Innovation Park
Science-humanities technology hub unites universities and business.
In the spaces of the former Officine Reggiane houses research laboratories and incubators for start-ups at Shed #19.
Research and development companies reside in Shed #18, while #15A will be a public space dedicated to events and performances.
Today, the Reggiane is also considered the largest street art laboratory in Europe and demonstrates how an important chapter of Italian industrial history can be reborn to new life.

1 p.m. – Inside THREE
Only plant-based ingredients and a menu that changes with each season in the sign of color.
Good taste reigns in this small vegan bistro, even in the furnishings.
The atmosphere is retro and decorating the interior are temporary exhibitions of painting, photography, and sculpture.
The artists who choose to collaborate create tailor-made itineraries to engage guests in an artistic experience to go along with the culinary experience.
(internotre.co.uk)

3 p.m. – Maramotti Collection
In the former Max Mara factory, the collection is a journey of exploration into contemporary Italian and foreign art that begins in 1945 and continues into the future.
From Burri to Fontana, Bacon and Basquiat, the exhibition expands and is renewed year by year, also promoting the work of young artists.
(collezionemaramotti.org)

5 p.m. – Passeggiata Estense
For bike lovers, there are 250 kilometers of bike paths.
From the city, you pedal along the Crostolo River to reach the Reggia di Rivalta, the little Versailles for its French architectural style: it is called Passeggiata Estense and starts from Corso Garibaldi, continues along Viale Umberto I, reaches the main entrance to the park to continue to the Reggia in a route surrounded by greenery that traces the ancient

8 p.m. – Seed House
Flowers and cuisine: what was once a store is now a brasserie with a corner dedicated to flowers and decor.
From breakfast to dinner.
Archpriest Street, 4/A