Local coordinates, global taste

From Ventasso to the Bismantova stone

by Silvia Ugolotti

There is a great beauty hidden among the heights of the Reggio Emilia Apennines that descends to the valley.
It is made up of history, unspoiled scenery and a sense of belonging.
Combined with typical gastronomic excellence, it makes it a land to be discovered.
The Reggio EmiliaApennines is a portion of the Tuscan-EmilianApennines that runs between Reggio Emilia and Lunigiana, touching the province of Parma.
Wavy, narrow roads that climb and then descend again, lapped by the raging river of history: from Matilda’s exploits to the Great War to modern adventures.
Those of those who decide to put down roots and bet on the resources of these ancient and lonely places.
They are mostly young people who open farms, design projects to regain possession of traditions, flavors and scents that we had forgotten about.
It is the mountain that is not imagined, overlooked by tourists, loved by travelers.

At the top of the mountain

Mount Ventasso rises 1727 meters with a pyramidal shape: a cross at the summit, Lake Calamone at its foot, divides the valleys of the Enza and Secchia rivers.
From Monticelli Terme you drive about an hour via Vetto and Ramiseto.
Ventasso is traveled many by trails that start from Lake Calamone, where there is a Refuge with a bar and restaurant.
The most popular is a loop that starts from the banks, crosses a beech forest, passes by theOratory of Santa Maria Maddalena, and continues flush with the rock.
Once at the top, the view repays the effort.
On the slopes of the mountain are remote villages where young people, like Rachele Grassi, an archaeologist from Carrara, sink their hands into the earth to build the future.
Saffron grower Rachele chose the mountains: “After eleven years, I am convinced that living in the Apennines is the right decision: the quality of life is unparalleled.”
Together with other little everyday heroes, she started cultivating and founded theVentasso Saffron Association.
Dried over beech embers the same day it is harvested, it is an excellent product, very pure, delicate and distinctive in flavor and aroma (Vicolo dei Cavalieri,2 Ventasso).
Not far away, Locanda Piera is a stone house with fireplaces, rustic details and a modern touch.
The rooms serve traditional mountain dishes, with a highlight, meat (Via Ponte Secchia 83 Marmoreto di Busana , Tel. 0522891249).
Those who lead the way like Rachele and those who retrace history like Il Vascello del Monsignore(ilvascellodelmonsignore.com).
For nearly 100 years it has respected tradition to produce balsamic vinegar, following every step by hand.
The ancient vinegar factory is in the municipality of Busana, and environmentally conscious and recycling-conscious, it is one of the producers in Slow Food’s Terra Madre network.
Exquisite and world-famous, DOP balsamic is among the products that crown Emilia Romagna a record-breaking region.
With 43 PDOs and PGIs, it holds the record of agrifood certifications in Italy and Europe.

Dante’s Stone

Mentioned by Dante in Purgatory, it was a guide for pilgrims on the Matildic paths, for men-at-arms, and for the countless shepherds who inhabited these mountains.
Compared to Ayers Rock, Australia’s sacred mountain, or the rock formations of Arizona, the Bismantova Stone is a huge sandstone monolith.
A ship-shaped profile one kilometer long, 240 meters wide and 300 meters high.
It is a spectacular, rough, angular cliff surrounded by the hills of Reggio Emilia.
Many paths, marked by the Cai (the easiest is 697), lead to the summit.
Guided hikes (guidelapietra.it) and climbing are also available: it is the most important gym in all of Emilia Romagna.
The oldest route, opened in 1922, is that of the Swiss, but there are many others.
On the way down, it’s worth stopping at Ginepro a nice restaurant with tables even outdoors overlooking the Pietra.
You can order excellent cold cuts, a good trio of tortelli, wild boar with polenta and much more(ilginepro.coop)

And again.

For cycling enthusiasts, good news.
With 785 kilometers, 37 routes, 15 high mountain trails, the Reggio Emilia Apennines is a cycling paradise.
The bike trails are organized by difficulty and route categories and downloadable from the Appennino Reggiano Bike website, where you can also find practical information and tips for getting organized in the best possible way: from bike-friendly accommodations to available guides to the location of electric ebike columns(appenninoreggianobike.it).

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