In the flat lands

Journey to the heart of the lower Po Valley

by Silvia Ugolotti

The Bassa Parmense is a fat, flat land of small towns and farming traditions.
Here, among old farmhouses and embankments, there are twelve towns, eight to the west and four to the east, making up a small but fascinating world.
Guareschi immortalized it in his books, Cesare Zavattini recounted it in his film sequences it has been photographed and painted.
It is the place of great fables and the flavors of amarcord, to be traveled on the road, slowly, letting yourself be enveloped by that icy vapor that conditions moods and flavors.

The triangle of conviviality

Conviviality and genuineness, these are watchwords of zero-mile food, values that have always, and fortunately, been nurtured and cherished in Italy.
Famous for its produce, cheerful wines and large tables, Parma and its province are a temple and laboratory of authentic cuisine.
Epicenter of production is the “pink” triangle of the Bassa Parmense that stretches between Zibello, Polesine and Roccabianca.
Right here, where fog and humid air are artfully dosed as if they were ingredients, Culatello di Zibello Dop, a product of haute salumeria, is born.
Massimo Spigaroli ‘s are famous, maturing in cellars built by the Pallavicino marquises in 1320.
His restaurant, theAntica Corte Pallavicina(anticacortepallavicinarelais.it), is a temple of fine gastrofluvial cuisine.
Also part of the Antichi produttori Terre di Nebbia company is the Bré del Gallo farm(bredelgallo.it): excellent culatelli rests in the centuries-old cellars until tasted.
The farm is Slow Food certified.

Zibello: old flavors and ancient heirlooms

Following low, side streets, one arrives in Zibello.
The entrance is in the large square with Palazzo Pallavicino, which is striking for its row of arcades.
It is under its arches La Boutique delle carni e dei salumi, for years a reference address for rediscovering the old flavors of the Bassa.
Surrounding the square are a few streets, old houses and the three-nave red-brick church of Saints Gervasius and Protasius.
A few steps from the church the museum” “The Cinematograph” (cell. 347 406 5078) displays a collection of film equipment inside a large 16th-century convent. From here you need to take the car to sit at the tables of La Buca di Zibello(trattorialabuca.com), the temple of good taste for women.
The restaurant, where Giovannino Guareschi was a regular customer, has been run for generations only by women: Romilda, Zaira, Elena and the legendary Miriam Leonardi, a histrionic and strong-willed woman.
Today it is her daughter Laura who carries on the good name of the restaurant.
Great classics remain on the menu, such as tagliatelle with culatello, tongue stew with porcini mushrooms and eel.
And, of course, the cured meats cured according to ancient tradition in the restaurant’s cellar.

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